![]() Millions of good usable cast bullets have been made from just plain WW, Don't over think this issue as it is for the most part just wasted effort to do so. My normal casting is done with just plain old clip on Wheel Weights and for my 45/70 I use a 50/50 alloy of WW and lead that I water quench. Buying extra tin if mostly a waste of good money. Something close to just plain Wheel Weights will do for almost all your casting needs. If you ever need a hardness test, there are a number of people on the forum that would be glad to test some samples for you. With the lock ring on the bottom, it limited the adjustment, the problem cured by simply moving that ring from the bottom to the top. I did swap the lock ring from the bottom of the adjustment on the RCBS tool which really helped with getting the correct adjustment. but trial and error will teach you what adjustments to make to solve those issues. You may run into issues about getting lube into the crimp groove etc. More about that only if someone is interested in what I found. I also used a two die system before finally getting good concentric 30 caliber cast. I have also modified top punches for a better fit by chucking the stem of the top punch in a drill, turning on the drill then using a Dramel tool custom cut the cup for a better fit. Top punches - I have had much better luck with those that have a fitted nose cup then top punches with a flat nose/ 44 mag cast rifle bullets and 45/70 cast into the 1900 range with no problems. ![]() I have pushed cast to bullets to 2500fps with no issues! Gas checked bullets. I'd lean towards the BAC, but both are working. I am currently using the LBT (Lead Bullet Technology) soft blue and the White Label "BAC" lube. I have made home brew, but find lubes like the White Label Lube to be so good and so economical that making the home brew is not worth the effort. ![]() ![]() Lube, I have never needed a lube that needed a heater. Go to your local auto parts store and buy a couple of the wrenches. I have however modified the lube pressure stem on the RCBS by drilling down the top and inserting and silver soldering part of a 1/4" Allen wrench into the top so I can use a ratchet wrench on both luber/sizers. Ideally you should leave a "head" on the outside, but even just a ridge on one side seems to be enough, plus the old dies are a bit larger and there isn't much clearance when inserting the riveted die into the lubesizer.I have both RCBS and Lyman. I insert a piece as shown in the third photo and rivet it, to fill the hole. Plugging some of the holes is one answer (Ian posted about this a long time ago and it works great for me).įind some solid solder, lead free seems to work best, but 50/50 should probably work too. These older style dies have larger holes than newer ones and can be troublesome, meaning they are more likely to allow Lube to get under the base of the boolit or fill the crimp groove. ![]() These older style dies have stagered rows of holes, so even this double lube groove Wad cutter boolit I use in this example only needs one row of holes. Then only small adjustments are needed to get it perfect. A couple helpful hints for adjusting a "old style" (large port) Lyman die for a troublesome boolit design.īefore I install a lubesizer die, I will "eye up" the lube grooves to the holes in the Die and get an idea how far the boolit has to enter the die. ![]()
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